Both pics above display not only extra friction on the bearings, but also the fact that the armatures aren't at the centre of the magnetic field, lowering the efficiency to a very large extent when we are talking about this kind of small, lower current motor. They'll run a lot more slowly.
However, you might have to TAKE AWAY THE BRUSHES FIRST before you are able to check whether the armature stays at the centre of the magnetic field, which is not very convenient when you are using conventional motor cans.
Even rookies, usually those running the AWD, might have overlooked this and made the mistake above because they might think that there is no need to secure the end bell using the 2 hinges. You might find a big difference in the clearances between the armature and the bearings if you don't reinstall the endbell tightly. A "tilted" bearing shown above (because the endbell isn't installed well) is an even worse case.
I see, and what motor case and Magnet will you use on this one?
this is very interesting topic, it could be more helpful if Ching can explain the relations and secrets between the:
- gauge ...
2slow 發表於 2010-1-27 11:22
I only use 3 kinds of magnets: from strong to weak :silver thin magnets, plasma dash (tamiya) and magnets from kit motor.
Thin silver goes with anything lower than 40-turn.
Kit motor magnets go with a rotor of 60 and higher turn.
For something in the middle, around 40-60-turn, I use the plasma dash (black) magnets.
Note that magnets die easily when the temperature is high. When they are weakened, the temperature becomes even higher while the motor runs more slowly.
Thanks for the info. can't wait to see the final figures..
but how about the N and S pole of the magnets, does it matters if I swap the poles, or how do I identify N or S poles?
how about the brushs' positions??
sorry I got a lot of questions, I'm just a new guy to this stuffs...Thanks
Compare the kit motor armature (left )with another that I bought from someone (right).
One thing that the picture can't show is that the left one actually has a thicker shaft and you have to file it a little bit to fit in 2mm bearings.
Second, look at why you have to adjust the shimming I mentioned before.
I can turn the commutator a little clockwise to acquire a positive timing just as the bigger scale RC cars do. You need to apply some instant glue to fix it. Th effect will be a higher RPM, particularly when you are using stronger magnets, but this will also reduce the run time a little bit as a trade off. I found armatures with more turns, say more than 60, need this move especially when they are used with stronger magnets, or else, you can't feel the improvement even if you wind it perfectly.