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標題: 求助run in engine 過熱 [打印本頁]

作者: bbmimiling 時間: 2009-4-25 19:18
標題: 求助run in engine 過熱
本帖最後由 bbmimiling 於 2009-4-25 19:29 編輯

我跟足kyosho說明書run in 部 kyosho GXR28SG.主針三圈,idel run 了三缸油,慢車run二缸油,近日賣了溫度鎗,度到溫度在170度以上,仲以為溫度鎗壞了,但度其他engine,又正常.
我是用15%油來run in的.請問在甚麼地方出錯?

作者: wongching 時間: 2009-4-25 19:32
下....有冇放大油針 !!!!!

作者: BHP 時間: 2009-4-25 19:49
本帖最後由 BHP 於 2009-4-25 19:50 編輯

o係 break-in 既階段﹐
engine "過熱" 好正常﹐
因為裡面磨擦得實在厲害。
有乜解救﹖

本人會每個 run cooldown.
30*C 著車﹐ 徘徊於半油<-->大半油, 踩到 150*C 熄車 cooldown﹐
一直 repeat 呢個 heat cycle 到佢唔再過熱為止。

另﹐
.21 以上既偈你可以考慮用 25% 或 30% nitro.
15% 過熱絕對正常﹐
nitro 高會較容易 cooldown 部偈﹐ 可以試試。

轉左 25% 之後﹐
好有可能同一個 setting, 唔 heat cycle 部車都唔過 150*C.

Cheers,
BigHead

作者: bbmimiling 時間: 2009-4-25 19:58
Thank you BigHead 兄

作者: bbmimiling 時間: 2009-4-25 20:02
BigHead 兄, 現在好大可能火嘴壞了,有人說用a3,但夏天又話用a5.請問用甚麼火咀好啦?

作者: BHP 時間: 2009-4-25 20:19
本帖最後由 BHP 於 2009-4-25 20:24 編輯

BigHead 兄, 現在好大可能火嘴壞了,有人說用a3,但夏天又話用a5.請問用甚麼火咀好啦?
bbmimiling 發表於 2009-4-25 20:02

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燒到o甘熱﹐ 火嘴燒壞都真係有可能 =)

A3 就咪搞﹐ 仲要係 28 呢 D 大偈﹐
用 D cool plugs 比較好~

全天候用 A5 都可以既﹐
熱 D 既時候我個人會用再 cool D, 如 R5

只要副偈唔死火就可以用冷一 D﹐
尤其你副偈已經去到o甘熱洛

----------------

你之前係用佢原裝既 glow plug?
原裝係 A3?
A3 本身就係叫副偈 "燒熱 D 啦﹐ 燒熱 D 啦"﹐
15% nitro 亦係一樣。
所以o係 break-in 既時候再用呢個 combo﹐
冇著火已經算你贏了

我只有好基本既 theory,
要深入 D 就要其他 C Hing 解答了。
因為我都冇玩 nitro 車一排﹐
兩個星期後我會復出﹐ 不過係玩 petrol 車 XDDD
Nitro 車我都唔記得點玩了~

BigHead

作者: raptor50x 時間: 2009-4-25 23:14
Hi BHP Ching,
Excuse me, the temp you're talking is C or F ? this is the first time I learn the break-in temp can be as high as 150C....

作者: BHP 時間: 2009-4-26 00:20

Hi BHP Ching,
Excuse me, the temp you're talking is C or F ? this is the first time I learn the break-in temp can be as high as 150C....
raptor50x 發表於 2009-4-25 23:14

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Yes I do mean degrees *C as specified in my post.
Of course, most manufacturers do not recommend the engine going over maybe 130*C during break-in.
It depends on how you're planning to use the engine too,
since race engines go way up to 180*C under race conditions,
while others prefer to keep their engines under 120*C for durability.

But yeah, I did use this heat cycle method when I break in larger engines.
For smaller engines .10 to .15, I keep them under 130*C.
For .28+, I keep them under 150*C during break-in.
Maybe I'm too harsh on the engines,
but I find that this method results in the smoothest engines under race conditions.

BigHead

作者: raptor50x 時間: 2009-4-26 01:02
Don't know much about the GXR28SG engine, but I believe it's just comes with a RTR and not a good racing engine.

作者: jf813 時間: 2009-4-26 03:34
本帖最後由 jf813 於 2009-4-26 03:44 編輯

180 degree!!!! Good luck with your engine as normal operation temp for .21 and .28 should be around 110 and .12 a little hotter, around 120. For break in keep it around 70 to 90 degree. If your engine run very hot during idle release the low end needle to get it run at 70 to 90 degree. Running a motor at this kind of temp. due to the different in thermo expension rate you are running very high risk of breaking the crank shaft!!!!!

作者: BHP 時間: 2009-4-26 10:58
本帖最後由 BHP 於 2009-4-26 11:02 編輯

180 degree!!!! Good luck with your engine as normal operation temp for .21 and .28 should be around 110 and .12 a little hotter, around 120. For break in keep it around 70 to 90 degree. If your en ...
jf813 發表於 2009-4-26 03:34

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Crankshaft usually breaks during the first 2 tanks during break-in,
when the newbies are running too rich thinking it's better for the engine,
which only adds more non-compressable fuel into the engine --> compression too high --> breaking the crankshaft.

Break-in method and temperature are delicate matters,
and there are many debates on this issue.
Some people like to keep it under 100*C during break in,
but after break-in, they play at 130*C.
What happens is that it expands larger at 130*C, causing air leaks and poor performance.

I go the other way.
I heat cycle my engine up to 130*C, my normal playing temperature;
keeping the revs in all ranges but not full-throttling to reduce stress on the crankshaft.
In other words, I break-in at the temperature I play at. Makes good sense? ; )

Sorry I'm not the old school type,
which idles a new engine with 3 turns open,
spitting fuel out thinking it's better for the engine. I don't believe in this {banned}

It's like a tennis player practicing in an air-conditioned room at 20*C for 2 months,
then go out to play in tournaments at 30+*C.
He'll just die. Same with engines.

***************** Summary ******************
The idea is to have your engine "adapt" to the conditions which you'll play at.
In my dictionary, break-in simply means "adaptation".
Afterall, that's the ultimate goal isn't it?
To have your engine run smoothly and healthily at the conditions which you'll play at?

Cheers ; )
BigHead

作者: jf813 時間: 2009-4-26 12:07
Just go play tennis and forget about RC. LOL

作者: novafans 時間: 2009-4-27 01:04
我唔知你副乜engine,不過好少會去到170*C,就算run-in階段,都唔會過120*C,你試吓再放啲大針run車,用鎗cheak到大約80*C就熄火,cool down後再重複,等活塞,司筒慢慢適應冷宿熱脹,自然會回復正常

作者: 亞輝 時間: 2009-4-27 07:21

我唔知你副乜engine,不過好少會去到170*C,就算run-in階段,都唔會過120*C,你試再放大針run車,用鎗cheak到大約80*C就熄火,cool down後再重複,等活塞,司筒慢慢適應冷宿熱脹,自然會回復正常
novafans 發表於 2009-4-27 01:04

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我同意C兄run-in階段大約80*再放大針

作者: jf813 時間: 2009-4-27 09:36
By running an engine in 150 degree the piston would expend so much 2 things would happen:

1:  If you are lucky the sleeve would expand so you can run the engine but as this much expansion is not reverseable you must run your engine at high temp to get proper seal between the piston and sleeve.  But this is causing issue like poor idle or 追油.

2:  The sleeve cannot expand anymore and simply jammed the piston and you will break the crank shaft or the con rod.

I agree with the c hing's which say the engine should break-in at around 80 and run at lower than 120.  If you know how a ABC engine works you will never come up with these "new age" break in BS.  I mean nitro engine been around for atleast 30 years, should be longer but I am not sure.  If 180 works everybody would be doing it now.

For "bbmimiling" try to keep the temp around 80 by releasing the high end and low end needle and hope the damage had not happen yet.....  Don't worry about the factory setting as it is just a starting point and not all engines are manufacture the same anyway.

Crankshaft usually breaks during the first 2 tanks during break-in,
when the newbies are running too rich thinking it's better for the engine,
which only adds more non-compressable fuel into the ...
BHP 發表於 2009-4-26 10:58

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作者: raptor50x 時間: 2009-4-27 10:24
本帖最後由 raptor50x 於 2009-4-27 10:29 編輯

I agree the break-in temp should be close to the working temp. But I will not risk my engine at 150C.

I keep my engine's temp as Ching jf813's recommendation and all works great.
And I would like to see BHP Ching's engine performance too, may be he is right, this can squeeze more power from the engine.

作者: billychan 時間: 2009-5-4 12:44
開大油針，長期低温。

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